Glazing for Depth
Technique level: Intermediate
Duration: ~35-40 minutes
Paper:
Kreatima aquarelle 25% cotton (maybe).
Colors, all A.Gallo*:
– Raw Sienna, Badia
– Ultramarine
– Indigo (NB1)
*(A.Gallo paints are not the best choice for layering…
or maybe I just need to get used to layering them…
or choose a better paper :))
Objective:
Practice glazing – layering transparent washes – to create rich, dimensional shadows without muddying your colors. This is how you make petals curl and leaves feel like they’re hovering just above the page. Your focus today is soft shadow transitions in natural folds: underleaf dimming or curled petals.
Materials:
- Watercolor paper (cold press for softness)
- Round brush (size 6-8) and a smaller brush for edges
- Pigments: transparent colors that glaze well (e.g., Cobalt Blue, Rose Madder, Sap Green, Burnt Sienna, Quin Gold)
- Optional: masking tape to keep the format tidy or create small vignette frames
Steps:
- Sketch the Subject:
Choose a leaf turned upward (with visible shadow underneath) or a petal with a soft, curled tip.
Lightly sketch the shape, noting where light hits and where it turns to shadow. - Base Layer:
Paint a base wash of the subject in mid-tone – flat and transparent. Let it dry completely.
Use colors true to the object, but keep them light – you’ll darken in steps. - Glaze #1 – Form Shadows:
Mix a slightly darker version of your base color (add a complement if needed to mute it).
Paint soft shadows where the leaf or petal turns away from light. Feather the edges with a damp brush. Dry. - Glaze #2 – Cast Shadows or Crease Depth:
Mix a cool shadow glaze (e.g., a touch of Ultramarine or Indigo added to your base tone).
Layer this only in the darkest shadow areas: where a leaf meets stem, or at the deepest fold of a petal. Dry again. - Final Polish (Optional):
Soften any edges or add a faint warm glaze over the light areas to give glow and contrast.
Add fine details like tiny veins or petal lines only if needed – shadows should be the main storytellers.
Focus:
- Let each layer fully dry before adding the next – rushing equals mushy shadows.
- Keep the glazes thin – your shadows should feel transparent, not thick or heavy.
- Use cool hues to deepen without dulling. Glazing is sneaky drama, not loud paint.
Bonus Prompt:
Take a photo of your subject under a desk lamp to see how shadows shift across folds and under leaves. Try to paint what you see, not what you think a shadow “should” look like.